How to build a sauna, by Saunas Complete
Walls and ceiling should be insulated with at least R11 insulation, then covered with 1/2" CDX plywood or 5/8" Drywall. the ceiling should be 7'1" from the floor.
The floor should be tiled and we have found that if the tile goes at least 4" on the walls, it is easier to clean and the chemicals don't get on the wood.
The electrical for heater and light should be done before the wood is installed.
The tongue and groove cedar or redwood we like to install horizontally to reduce the shrinking of the wood preventing less gaps in the walls.
We blind nail the benches and floor (nailed from underneath) to prevent burning. Our benches go all the way to the back of the walls and are removable for easy cleaning and a great look. The top bench frame goes in first at 36" from the floor and the bottom bench goes in at 18" from the floor.
The door should have a self closing hinge without a door knob. The door is 24" x 80" for a resident and 36" x 80" for a commercial sauna with a wooden handle on the outside and a push plate on the inside. We custom make all styles.
The heater goes 12" from the floor and bolts onto the wall. The thermostat goes 12" from the ceiling. We use stainless steel heaters inside and out.
There should be a heater guard around the heater to prevent burning. The floor goes at least 1 foot under the benches and is also removable for easy cleaning. It is against Florida building handicap code to have a wooden floor in a commercial sauna.
The trim is 1" x 2" and is installed to all corners of the sauna and around the door. The lights are vapor proof and can be on ceiling or wall.
